Gunderloch’s 2007 Nackenheimer Rotenberg Spatlese smells gloriously of orange blossom, fennel pollen, sage, black tea, and tangerine. To this cast is added on the palate a honey and malt-like richness and orange liqueur projection of superbly-ripe fruit, yet with elegance, lift, and sheer juiciness that make the next sip downright irresistible, even if the memory of the last seemingly won’t die away. I would plan on savoring this beauty over the next 12-15 years. The best Riesling sites at Gunderloch weren’t picked before late October, and nobly sweet wines were harvested into February! The berries were tiny and largely healthy, says Agnes Hasselbach, and it stayed cold, dry, windy, and sunny, so they slowly dried out. Imported: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463