The 2003 Roero Roche d’Ampsej is a completely different animal. It is a powerful, brooding wine packed with super-ripe fruit and a wild, untamed personality. The tannins finish somewhat coarse and I have my doubts as to whether this will ever be an especially elegant wine. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2015. Importer: A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411