Protos has been around a long time and it took the winery almost forever to jump on board the modern express. But with Seleccion they’ve nailed the recipe. This wine is young and ready to rock. It bypasses finesse and elegance and goes straight for power. The mouth is sweet, lush and cheerful, and the berry flavors are finely accented by smooth tannins and perfect acidity. Better to hold this wine for another couple of years, but don’t let it die in your cellar. It’s not a 20-year specimen.——M.S.(6/1/2008)—— 92