Still dependable despite changes in ownership, this winery again delivers an elegant, well-made wine. With this vintage, it veers more toward herbaceous notes than fruity ones. The dominant flavors are of green olives and sweet bell pepper. Don’t think, however, that it’s lean. Oak provides fatness, and the right foods, like grilled red meat, will coax out the berry sweetness. ——S.H.(2/1/2001)—— 87