Epire’s 2005 Savennieres Cuvee Speciale as usual represents riper raw material and there is no doubt about the opulence, textural richness, and exotic floral notes on display here. But the focus and mineral intensity of the “regular” bottling are replaced with more diffuse pit fruit character, with wet wool, and slightly bitter alkaline notes. Fascinating, and possibly destined to give a more organized account of itself in a year or two, this is one to sample and reflect on rather than to purchase in any significant quantity.As I reported in issue 172, I found the 2005s from Chateau d’Epire quite embryonic and closed-in early on, but they remain on the market and are now more accessible.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524