In the same style, the 1995 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Chaupin gives up ripe aromas and flavors of chocolate, fruit cake, spice and assorted darker-styled fruit to go with a full-bodied, supple, layered, yet completely resolved feel on the palate. There’s a rocking core of sweet fruit here, but it needs to be consumed over the coming couple of years. One of the benchmark estates in the Rhone Valley, Domaine de la Janasse is run by the talented brother/sister pair of Christophe and Isabelle Sabon. Located in the northeastern portion of the region, near Courthezon, they produce an incredible range of wines, from their Vin de Pays, to their Cotes du Rones and world-class Chateauneuf du Papes, all of which are noteworthy. For this tasting, we started with the 1990s and went up through their 2007s. At this point, the ‘98s through the 2004s are all in varying degrees of full maturity, and drinking brilliantly. In addition, it’s also worth pointing out that these wines have the fruit and texture to dish out immense pleasure in their youth, so don’t be afraid to crack these new releases either. Both of the 1999s were drinking beautifully, and are up near the top of the vintage. Moving to the 2000s, I found that from this point forward, the wines started to show more freshness and vibrancy. Looking specifically at this vintage, these are still mature wines, yet they’re drinking beautifully. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

The three cuvees of Chateauneuf du Pape all merit interest. Sabon makes a special cuvee from 100% Grenache called Cuvee Chaupoins. The 1995s tasted extremely young, exhibiting less of the herbes de Provence/garrigue character, but more of the black fruit characteristics. All three 1995s are powerful, with good structure, and better acidity than their 1994 counterparts. The black/ruby-colored 1995 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Chaupoins displays superb richness, admirable power, and a restrained, measured, elegant style. It could pass for a grand cru Burgundy from the Cotes de Nuits in a blind tasting. It should drink well for 10-12 years. This wine was tasted between June 1 and June 16, 1996.Aime Sabon is one of the new stars of the southern Rhone. The Domaine de la Janasse wines offer gorgeous displays of ripe fruit, plenty of character and extract, as well as balance, complexity, and as much finesse as you will find in an appellation better-known for exuberance, power, and gutsiness.Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel. (212) 924-4949