One of my favorites was already the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Chaupin (which is always aged in foudres and 600-liter demi-muids, two-thirds in the former and one-third in the latter) and this wine has really put on richness and intensity since I tasted it last year. An absolutely magnificent wine, it scored a good four points higher this year, and it is unusual for me to vary that much from one tasting to the next. Tipping the scales at 15% natural alcohol, this dense purple wine has noble sweetness and an extraordinary concentration of lavender, black cherry liqueur, licorice, and minerality. Full-bodied, with silky tannins, a multi-dimensional, unctuously textured, voluptuous palate and a stunning finish, this wine is outrageously delicious and a phenomenal expression of old-vine Grenache. It should drink well for up to 20+ years. This impeccably run estate, in the capable hands of Christophe Sabon, his sister Isabelle, and their father, is one of the superstars of the southern Rhone Valley. Over the last 12-15 years, the quality of the wines has gone from strength to strength, with brilliant wines being produced in all price categories. They make sumptuous, complex, world-class red, white and rose Cotes du Rhones, and year-in and year-out, their Chateauneuf du Papes are among the top three or four wines of the vintage. Tasting two great vintages (2009 and 2010) from the Sabons was one of the most thrilling tastings I have had this year. My tasting began with some unbelievable Cotes du Rhones.Importer: Eric Solomon, European Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

In just a beautiful spot right now, the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Chaupin offers up scents of purple raspberries and hints of Mexican chocolate. Full-bodied and silky-textured, it's at the peak of its maturity, with at least 5-6 years left ahead of it. Drink or hold.