Historically, I have never been a fan of Spain's white wines, but modern technology (sometimes it does have its merits) has resulted in a bevy of stainless steel cold-fermented, quickly bottled Spanish white wines that are light-bodied, extremely pure, fresh, and aromatic. The 1995 Codice white (a blend of 90% Viura and 10% Malvasia) may be Spain's answer to the highly successful white wines from France's Cotes de Gascogne. It is a dry, crisp, perfumed, light-bodied, deliciously fruity, fresh wine for drinking over the next six months. It is a noteworthy value, as well as an ideal aperitif or all purpose chicken/fish wine. This Rioja bodega must be one of the world's great value wineries. Readers may remember my ecstatic reviews of last year's releases, and I am just as thrilled about the new vintages. Readers depressed about the skyrocketing prices for well-known Italian, French, and Californian wines, should realize that Sierra Cantabria's wines offer spectacular relief from high prices. They are remarkable values Importer: Fine Estates From Spain, 75 Fox Meadow Lane, Dedham, MA 02026; tel. (617) 461-5767 and fax (617) 461-2570