Now in its third vintage, this Mourvedre (with 11% Syrah in the blend) is better than ever. More than just a fruity, spicy-sweet red wine, it’s got a luscious, smoky, gamy quality now showing for the first time. Dark and powerful, with flavors of graphite running through the tannins, superb definition and appealing minerality. ——P.G.(10/1/2006)—— 92