The gravel and perfume-scented Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrieres delivers an extremely flavorful mouthful of minerals and hazelnuts. This medium-to-full-bodied, dense, oily, and rich wine is better focused and balanced yet boisterous. Projected maturity: now-2005. Importers: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802, Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyard, Shekomeko, NY; tel (800) 910-1990, Wine Markets International, Woodbury, NY; tel (516) 364-1850 and, under the "Cuvee Nicole" label, Fran Kysela, Winchester, VA; tel (540) 722-9228.