Readers looking for a straightforward, gamy, wild berry-scented, tannic, rustic red wine should check out Sorrel's 1998 Crozes-Hermitage. This offering, which was fermented with some stems, reveals more depth than usual, but is still made from relatively young vines (planted in 1990 and 1991). Importers: Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports, West Newton, MA; fax (617) 965-7530 and World Wine Import, Atlanta, GA; fax (404) 842-1487

Readers looking for a straightforward, gamy, wild berry-scented, tannic, rustic red wine should check out Sorrel's 1998 Crozes-Hermitage. This offering, which was fermented with some stems, reveals more depth than usual, but is still made from relatively young vines (planted in 1990 and 1991). Importers: Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports, West Newton, MA; fax (617) 965-7530 and World Wine Import, Atlanta, GA; fax (404) 842-1487