The 2007 Moscato d’Asti offers an exciting array of lime peel, pears, green apples, flowers and minerals in a focused, incredibly pure style. The wine possesses gorgeous length and phenomenal balance. This is what top-flight Moscato is all about. Anticipated maturity: 2008. Castiglione Tinella is a bit off the beaten track for visitors traveling to Piedmont, but it is here in this gorgeous hillside town that some of the most profound Moscatos are found, particularly those of the talented Paolo Saracco. While I generally advise drinking Moscatos young, I have also tasted a number of four to five year-old bottles here that have aged beautifully, although, of course at that age the wines no longer have the sheer charm they did when they were young. Simply put, Saracco is a reference-point producer for Moscato. The wines are a staple at my dinner table. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

Those expecting a typical Asti will be surprised by the strong blackcurrant flavors of the Saracco. After the initial shock wears off, they will find other flavors peeking through, some more typical apricot and peach flavors and a touch of vanilla. The wine is rich and quite chunky but the finish is a little abrupt. ——M.G.(12/22/2011)—— 85