Technocrats will no doubt object to the intense nose of berry fruit and saddle leather (suggestive of the brett yeast) that can be detected in the 1990 Zinfandel-Scherer Vineyard. But this full-bodied, intense, black cherry-scented and flavored wine exhibits wonderfully expansive, sweet, ripe fruit and moderate tannins in the finish. Another year of cellaring should result in some of the tannins melting away to reveal even more opulence and intensity. Tel. 707-877-3262.