The 2003 Variation One (60% Merlot and 40% Syrah) exhibits a scorched earth/primordial character in the nose, along with hints of white chocolate, espresso, and black fruits. Pure, rich, and dense, with a singular personality and a complex style, it is firmer and more tightly knit than it was from barrel. Give it another 1-2 years of bottle age and consume over the next 10-12 years. This partnership between winemaker John Kongsgaard and auctioneer Fritz Hatton has produced distinctive, singular wines, with the H Block a California version of Bordeaux’s famed Cheval Blanc, and the Variation One a “who knows what the heck” blend of Merlot and Syrah. Think of it as a hybrid version of a Bordeaux Graves mixed with a Rhone Valley Hermitage. All of the current portfolio offerings are top-notch, although the 2004s are not up to the quality level of the last three vintages. Fax (707) 963-4512