The blend of 55% Syrah and 45% Merlot, all from the Hudson Vineyard in southern Napa is the 2008 Variation One. The trick is to co-ferment both Syrah and Merlot, and it has resulted in a meaty, blackberry, black cherry-scented wine with some notes of lard, jus de viande, and spring flowers. It is an interesting, layered, medium to full-bodied wine that is already delicious and should continue to age well for a decade or more. This is an intriguing and provocative operation from wine personality Fritz Hatton, who is also a classical pianist and auctioneer. He has long had a winemaking association with well-known Napa consultant Andy Erickson. Tel. (707) 963-5918; fax (707) 963-5919