The 2008 Rosso di Montalcino is one of the better versions in this tricky vintage. A gorgeous bouquet bristling with Sangiovese aromas leads to red cherries, tobacco and earthiness. There is a plumpness and juiciness I find very attractive here. Some of the wilder, gamier notes typical of Sangiovese come through from time to time, but that notwithstanding, this is a lovely effort. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. Canalicchio di Sopra - Ripaccioli seems to be making better and better wines with each passing vintage. The estate’s Rosso and Brunellos are sourced from vineyards in the Canalicchio and Montosoli districts, both on the northern side of Montalcino, and are aged predominantly in cask. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

You could easily pair this food-friendly Rosso di Montalcino with roasted chicken with rosemary potatoes and garlic. The nose here is bright and penetrating with earthy notes, mineral tones and loads of bright berry fruit. The mouthfeel is smooth and there’s a touch of cherry sweetness as well.——M.L.(8/1/2010)—— 88