The 2011 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Suchots has a controlled bouquet (in context of this particular vineyard), one that is well-defined, with earthy black fruit and a touch of struck match. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, crisp acidity and a very focused, almost symmetrical finish that is atypically linear. This is holding something back: a sultry Les Suchots that will need cellar time to lose its inhibitions. Drink 2017-2030. Prior to launching into Maison Lucien de Moine’s 2012 reds with irrepressible winemaker Mounir Saouma, we revisited some of his 2011s that are now in bottle. To recap, Mounir is one of the last Burgundy producers to bottle his wines, since he is a great believer in extended elevage. There is a clutch of outstanding wines in this vintage, particularly at the grand cru level, where one must admire the consistency across the board. As always, readers are reminded that Lucien Le Moine’s wines are made in a stringently reductive method, therefore they always need more decanting time than other growers. Importers: Vintus LLC, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000, Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; tel. (650) 328-6639