Elaborately oaked, and opens with a smooth waft of buttered toast, smoky char and vanilla. There are hints of fruit in the aroma, but it’s on the palate that the flavors really hit. Tropical fruits, mainly, with hints of white peach, and a sleek minerality that’s part acidity, part stony terrior. Complex, young and compelling. ——S.H.(10/1/2003)—— 92