The Hecht & Bannier 2003 Saint-Chinian (from Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre) utterly belies its vintage, while demonstrating the heights to which its appellation can aspire. Wood smoke, wet stones, sweat, and toasted walnut all inflect the blueberry and boysenberry aromas, leading to a luscious, smoothly-textured palate full of blue fruit and meat stock underlain by chalk and stone, and accented by hints of fruit pit bitterness. This displays amazing lift for a Languedoc red (not to mention of vintage 2003) and finishes with tenacity yet refinement. Precisely because it is so delicious now, such an amazing value and from a producer so new, I’d be tempted to sock away a few bottles and see what develops over the next several years. (A highly-concentrated Faugeres was much more 2003-like, although its tannins might just need time. A note on their Cotes du Roussillon Villages appears elsewhere in this issue.)Gregory Hecht and Francois Bannier’s young negociant operation promises to be an outstanding source for wines of the Languedoc and Roussillon, and I am only sorry I did not have opportunity to taste more than a half dozen of their recent releases (one a scrumptious rose of Syrah). They talk of aging their reds in foudres or demi-muid “to conserve the typical Mediterranean strength of our wines, while preserving balance and crispness” and they certainly walk the corresponding walk!Hecht & Bannier Selections (various importers); fax 011 33 4 6774 66 45

A wine that bursts with aromas and wild flavors. From the raspberry and licorice aromas to the chewy, oaky and cranberry flavors, this is a wine that is a great reflection of the southern warmth and richness.——R.V.(12/15/2007)—— 89