Leaning heavily on Syrah from schist, the Hecht & Bannier 2006 Saint-Chinian was nearly two years in a combination of tank and barrels. Smoke and crushed stone seem to hover over the glass, and an adamant mineral tone persists throughout, with bitter- and tartly-edged black fruits reflecting the relatively low pH of the vintage. This concentrated essence of an appellation (albeit one geologically heterogeneous) has just recently retreated into a shell, say Hecht and Bannier. It certainly looks likely to benefit from a couple of years in bottle and probably will be worth following for a comparably long period thereafter. Gregory Hecht and Francois Bannier’s negociant partnership – entering its seventh year – is singularly quality-oriented, and their connections with growers and tireless tasting trips throughout the Languedoc and Roussillon (350-400 visits each year) are rewarding wine lovers wherever their limited production is sold. (Consult the Roussillon section of this report for their wines from that region.) Make no mistake: wines under the Hecht & Bannier label can compete with the very best being produced by individual estates in their respective appellations, making them among the world’s finest red wine values. (Prices have remained unchanged for three vintages.) The aim in selection of lots, as well as in elevage (much of which takes place in foudres or demi-muid), is to capture ripe fruit and rich textures while conserving fresh fruit vivacity and setting a standard of lift and elegance such as is possessed by only the best wines being grown today in the Languedoc and Roussillon. The partners (who met as students in Burgundy) will remain focused on just a few outstanding locations where a sufficient number of growers (typically 8-12 per appellation) practice low yields, hand-harvest, press impeccably, and will honor a handshake “contract.” At most, they suggest, a couple of additional appellations might one day be added to their line-up (which also includes a consistently delightful Syrah-based rose). As Hecht puts it, “for the protection of all parties, we intend to stay small,” both in total production per appellation and volume per grower. Meanwhile, in order to offer something less-expensive in higher-volume, a new cuvee has debuted this year – employing a new appellation that permits blending across both the Languedoc and Roussillon.Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

A great wine that’s sure to please. Ripe and fruity with cherry, red raspberry, thyme and eucalyptus on the nose. The mouth has a solid structure and is well integrated with prominent but not overpowering tannins and red plum guts on the palate. The finish is kissed with a hint of mocha.——L.B.(8/1/2009)—— 90