The 2007 Roero Riserva Mombeltramo is an attractive wine built for near-term drinking. Sweet roses and berries emerge from the glass, but once past the initial burst of fruit the aromas and flavors start showing slightly oxidative notes that suggest the wine is best enjoyed over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Malvira is one of Roero's most inspired producers. In particular readers should focus on the estate's Arneis and Roero bottlings. Importers: Beverly Malen Imports Inc., Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 227-9463, Ibanez Pleven Offerings, New York, NY; tel. (212) 243-9463; Domace Vino, Shoreview, MN; tel. (612) 501-5799; Dionysus Imports, Houston, TX; tel. (713) 822-8007; Imports Inc., Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 227-9463; Triage Wines, Portland, OR; tel. (206) 883-0543; Trilussa Wine Company, San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 499-8466; Natural Wines, Boulder, CO; tel.-(303) 588-6122; Vino Vino, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 665-7515

This dense Nebbiolo opens with a dark, concentrated style that is followed by chewy, mature aromas of ripe fruit, mocha and carob seed. There’s a soft note of spice along with tight, drying tannins on the finish.——M.L.(9/1/2011)—— 87