Deep brick colored, the 1988 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate is redolent of baked cherries, plum preserves and black truffles with hints of Marmite toast, chargrill and damp soil. Medium-bodied, the palate is very firm and chewy, with a crisp acid line lifting the densely packed fruit, finishing long and earthy. It has more punch than the 1983, but not as much polish.

There is something reassuring about seeing a bottle of Chateau Montelena. This classic, old Napa Valley winery is best known for its Cabernet Sauvignon, but they can also fashion wonderful Chardonnay from the Alexander and Napa valleys.Montelena's 1988 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate is one of the most tannic, densest wines of the vintage, but I am somewhat alarmed by the high level of tannins. This bruiser is boldly flavored, but the tannins are hard and astringent, making one wonder if everything will come into balance. I remember having similar reservations about their 1983 which is now beginning to drink well.