Medium to deep garnet-brick in color, the 1990 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate sings with amazing expressiveness, sporting crème de cassis, blueberry tart and dried roses on the nose with touches of cloves, cigar box and Bovril. Medium-bodied, the palate is chock full of expressive black and blue fruit preserves with velvety tannins and a long, spicy finish.

The 1990 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate was reviewed in issue #95 from tastings done before its release. Tasted twice from purchased bottles, it is a backward, but splendidly concentrated, broad, expansively-flavored, full-bodied Cabernet with a high level of tannin. Its stunning display of highly extracted, blackcurrant fruit judiciously wrapped in toasty oak is impressive. It is a 20-30 year wine.Every time I participate in a blind tasting of a specific vintage of California Cabernets, whether it be 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1980, 1981, 1982, etc., Chateau Montelena's wines consistently come out near or at the top. The style of their Estate Cabernet Sauvignon has remained an uncompromising blend of super-ripe fruit, power, concentration, and tannin. The only refinement has been that the type of tannin achieved in vintages in the nineties is softer, giving the wines earlier accessibility. That has been obtained without sacrificing any of the splendid richness and purity that are the hallmarks of Montelena's Cabernets.Winemaker/proprietor Bo Barrett is thrilled with what looks to be another great California Cabernet Sauvignon vintage in 1994. Wine enthusiasts looking for the best money can buy should be thrilled that this property, like many of the better California north coast wineries, has had an unprecedented five consecutive terrific vintages. This property has begun to offer a less expensive, more supple style of Cabernet Sauvignon called the Calistoga Cuvee. I reviewed and recommended the 1992 in issue #95. It is a good introduction to Montelena's style, but the real glories are the estate Cabernet Sauvignons. Tel. (707) 942-5105; Fax (707) 942-4221.