The 2009 Poggio alla Guardia is the estate’s entry-level wine, and is an excellent choice for drinking over the next few years. Layers of radiant, expressive fruit caress the palate, followed by floral overtones, spices, sweet herbs and licorice. Sweet, silky tannins support the pliant, open fruit through to the finish. Poggio alla Guardia is 45% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Sangiovese, aged in stainless steel. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2017. Proprietor Paolo Panerai is a bit of a Renaissance man. Panerai publishes Milano Finanza, Italy’s equivalent of Barrons (for which he also writes one of that country’s most widely read editorial columns), publishes a number of other more lifestyle oriented magazines and has a joint venture with CNBC, to list a few of his business interests. Oh, and he makes pretty good wines, too. Since the 1970s Panerai and his family have owned Castellare, one of the leading estates in Chianti Classico. More recently, Panerai has set his sights on making first-rate wines in Maremma through this joint venture with the Rothschild family. Rocca di Frassinello is a young winery, and the best is clearly yet to come.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200