The entry-level 2005 Poggio alla Guardia is a fresh, vinous wine with perfumed fruit and an accessible personality. It is best enjoyed over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010. I was delighted by the quality of these 2005s from Rocca di Frassinello, especially after the less than exciting set of wines this young estate produced in 2004. Despite the challenges of 2005, quality appears to be moving in the right direction, for which I heartily congratulate proprietor Paolo Panerai and winemakers Alessandro Cellai and Christian Le Sommer.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

There’s a lot of ripe berry that muddles the purity of fruit. For example, you’ll get strawberry roll-up and sweet spice upfront. It tastes youthful and soft overall.——M.L.(4/1/2008)—— 86