The 2009 Nuits St. Georges Les Perrieres possesses gorgeous purity and integrity from start to finish. Exotic hints of allspice, tar, smoke and camphor add elements of darkness to the Perrieres. This is an especially brooding, inward wine that will require considerable bottle age to soften, even if occasional elements of sweetness and accessibility suggest I may be erring on the side of caution. The Perrieres has maintained great freshness and overall energy. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039. My tasting with Denis and Bertrand Chevillon was one of the highlights of my most recent trip to Burgundy. The domaine’s 2009s are flat-out beautiful. Readers will not want to miss these gems. Importer: Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524