Aromas of cassis, plums, grilled squab and rich soil tones, elegantly framed by new wood, introduce the 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Perrières, a medium to full-bodied wine that's firmer and more tensile in profile, with a deep core of sappy fruit, structured around fine-grained, chalky tannins that assert themselves on the long finish. This was a little less put together than some of Chevillon's 2017s when I tasted it, but its excellent potential is impossible to miss.