The 2008 Reserve Release Chardonnay is still very youthful, offering subtle aromas of white peaches, lemon curd, apple tart and meal with a slight whiff of cedar. Light to medium bodied, it has a good backbone of high acid, nice suggestion of creaminess to the texture and a long stone fruit laced finish. Just approachable now, it should continue to evolve and drink well to 2016. Importer: De Bortoli Wines USA Inc, Tel: + 1 201 714 9700; www.debortoli.com.au.

(Victoria) Full, complex, broad and satisfying aromas of soft melon and juicy lemon. This has breadth, structure, vinosity and assurance. Good freshness, nicely balanced with a hint of buttered popcorn and a subtle, lingering finish. Great line and purity. Alc: 12%.

De Bortoli continues to turn out highly restrained Chardonnays from its own Yarra Valley vineyards. This is lean and crisp, with smoke accenting pear and pineapple fruit. Pretty unique among Australian examples, but exemplifying winemaker Steve Webber’s approach.——J.C.(2/1/2011)—— 88