The medium straw-colored 2007 Chardonnay Reserve Release was fermented with native yeasts, went through full malolactic fermentation, and was aged in seasoned French oak. It reveals an enticing perfume of spiced apples, poached pear, and a hint of tropical fruit in the background. On the palate it shows off an elegant, racy personality with intense flavors, good balance, and a fruit-filled finish. Drink it over the next five years. De Bortoli produces a substantial amount of wine (it has four winemaking facilities) but under the leadership of manager/winemaker Stephen Webber this has not been a deterrent to high quality. Eight value wines were reviewed in Issue 178 and merit serious interest. The main winery facility which I visited in September 2008 is located in the cooler climate Yarra Valley where the focus is on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.Importer: De Bortoli Wines USA, Hoboken, NJ; tel. (201) 714-9700

This medium-bodied Chardonnay is plump without being heavy, featuring modest citrus aromas but greater depth of fruit on the palate, adding pear and melon flavors to the mix. It’s fresh and lively on the finish, which should serve it well with a wide variety of dishes. Drink now–2013.——J.C.(7/1/2010)—— 89