The 2005 Chardonnay Reserve Release needs no excuses. It was barrel-fermented with wild yeasts in older French oak and went through full malolactic fermentation. The wine remained on its lees with stirring every two weeks. It delivers a splendid perfume of toast, butterscotch, hazel nut, green apple and pear in a style reminiscent of a high quality Premier Cru Chablis. Mouth-filling andintense, with outstanding concentration and balance, this attractive Chardonnay should evolve for 2-3 year and drink well through 2017. De Bortoli owns estate vineyards in Riverina, Hunter Valley, and Yarra Valley and produces several tiers of dry table wines in addition to their sweet and fortified dessert wines.Also tasted: 2007 Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon Windy Peak (75), 2007 Viognier Windy Peak (80), 2006 Pinot Nair Vat 10 (78), 2007 Pinot Nair Windy Peak (72), 2006 Pinot Nair Estate Grown (82?), 2006 Shiraz, McLaren ValeImporter: De Bortoli Wines, North America; www.debortoli.com.au

Shows subtle oaking in its hints of toast and vanilla, but the standout facet of this wine is its ripe melon fruit, which gives it size and roundness but lacks a little touch of richness. The result is an easy-to-drink wine that’s clean and refreshing on the palate. ——J.C.(5/1/2007)—— 87