The middle-aged to older vines, the Droin 2006 Chablis Montee de Tonerre betrays the flint associated with this site in its pungently smoky and high-toned herbal and currant aromatics. Another almost spare, attractively lean wine from this collection – seemingly flaunting its slightly reduced character as if to say “If you think I’m impressive now, just wait ... ” – this deploys an improbable array of mineral notes in its penetrating, long finish. It has the depth, concentration, and incipient fascination to reward 8-10 years in the cellar. Benoit Droin’s recent collections display increasing mastery of his medium and continued willingness to experiment, even as he extends his range of crus. His have become some of the most interesting wines in Chablis, not to mention being outstanding values. Droin prides himself on being able to harvest ahead of most of his colleagues – which in 2006 meant in advance of the official starting date – although he adds that 2007 has proved an exception to that rule. Droin by choice sells what for the region constitutes a relatively high one third share of his wine inside France. Importer: Eric Solomon Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565