The 2007 Barolo La Pira is a huge, voluptuous wine endowed with stunning textural richness and depth at this level. Dark cherries, plums, menthol and flowers flow through to the rich, enveloping finish as this broad-shouldered yet utterly impeccable wine opens up in the glass. Like so many wines in this vintage, the 2007 is open for business yet also appears to have more than enough structure to age well for many years. Sweet floral notes, spices and tobacco reappear on a gorgeous finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2027. Readers will note a change with these new releases from Luca Roagna. The top Barolo and Barbaresco selections are all being released at the same time, which means there is basically one vintage on the market at a time, rather than the mish-mash of vintages that was previously the custom. Roagna has also stepped up the quality of his corks, which is quite welcome for wines that are meant to age for decades. As always, the winemaking style at Roagna is deeply imbued in tradition. Late harvests, extended macerations and long aging in neutral oak inform wines of great personality. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191