The 2005 Barolo La Pira is a surprisingly restrained Barolo from Roagna. Crushed flowers, red cherries, spices and licorice are some of the aromas and flavors from this delicate, dare I say it – Burgundian – Barolo. Silky tannins and floral notes frame the perfumed finish. I don’t expect this to be one of the most long-lived wines Roagna has ever made, but in exchange it should drink well right out of the gate. Readers should note that this is the same Barolo that was previously known as the La Rocca e La Pira. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. You never know what to expect from Luca Roagna. That is one of the reasons a visit can’t possibly be boring, there are just too many new things to absorb with seemingly every tasting. Some things don’t change, however, including a decidedly traditional approach to vineyard work and winemaking which emphasizes late harvests, the use of natural yeasts and extended barrel aging. Roagna fans will be sad to learn that the estate recently lost access to the fruit they had been working with from Vigna Rionda. A few Riservas from that site are still aging in the cellar, but 2006 will be the last vintage of Roagna Riondas. In exchange, Roagna has a new Barolo from the Le Coste vineyard in Monforte. That wine appears to still be a work in progress. Everything else I tasted was superb, including the 2002 Barbaresco Crichet Paje. Readers should be aware that because of the limited production of many of these wines (including the 2002 Crichet Paje) Roagna has decided to release the wines as a mixed case of 12 bottles. Some of the single wines will naturally be harder to source on their own. Readers who want to learn more about Roagna may want to take a look at my recent video interview on www.erobertparker.com Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191