Tasting through Robert Mondavi's portfolio continues to reinforce my impression that this winery is undeniably the spiritual and qualitative leader of that sector of the California wine industry dedicated to producing world-class wines. What is so admirable about the entire Mondavi operation is that they continue to push their wines to higher and higher qualitative levels. Their nearly obsessive pursuit of bottling the wines with no manipulation has led to the majority of Mondavi's white wines being bottled without filtration - an extraordinary testament to their commitment to natural wines and superb quality. Mondavi has also inaugurated a line-up of Italian-inspired varietals (Barbera, Sangiovese, Pinot Grigio, Malvasia, and Tocai) in designer bottles. While the quality is good, those products have not yet hit the heights of the firm's other wines. Rest assured, that will change. It is not exactly an untold story, but California has made amazing progress with the fickle Pinot Noir grape. In 1995, there are more compelling, rich, expansive, complex, fragrant Pinot Noirs emerging from California than Oregon, something that could not have been said five or six years ago. No one has tried harder to capture the expansive perfume and supple texture of the Pinot Noir grape than Robert Mondavi. They produce three Pinot Noir cuvees, a Carneros offering, a Napa Valley offering, and a Napa Valley Reserve. All three exhibit a sweet, berry fragrance, followed by the expansive, succulent texture that makes a top-notch Pinot Noir so seductive and irresistible. The Reserve possesses more concentration and extract, as well as more new oak. Like all the reds in the Mondavi portfolio, these wines are bottled without filtration. The 1994 Pinot Noir Carneros displays an attractive spicy, cinnamon-scented nose, sweet cherry fruit, a soft, velvety texture, and a fruity finish. Drink it over the next 4-5 years as it is not likely to be long-lived. All things considered, there is plenty to be excited about at the Robert Mondavi winery. Tel. (800)-MONDAVI; Fax (707) 963-1007.