The 1998 Chevalier-Montrachet exhibits white fruit, talcum powder, and spice aromas. This is a medium-bodied, precise, and mineral-dominated wine with excellent depth to its core. Well-delineated and balanced, it should be at its best between 2001 and 2006. Importer: Clicquot, Inc., New York, NY; tel (212) 888-7575.

Sticker shock aside, this is a stellar bottle of wine, with rich, thick, viscous fruit laced with mineral and spiced with oak. Still young, green and tight, but the length and strength of the buttery finish suggest wonderful development ahead.——P.G.(7/1/2000)—— 94