The Clos Frantin 2006 Clos Vougeot displays both the underlying density and bright, tart black fruits that typify the 2006s at this estate, but here the tannins intrude in the finish with a bit of roughness, there is a bit less sheer sap; and while there is a site-typical carnal dimension, at least for the moment this wants for some complexity. The Albert Bichot firm incorporates no fewer than four separate domaines – the venerable Long-Depaquit in Chablis (about which, consult my reports in issues 186 and 179); Nuits-St.-Georges-based Domaine du Clos Frantin; Pommard-based Domaine du Pavillon; and the much smaller Domaine Adelie in Mercurey – each of which has its own press house, those in the Cote de Beaune and Cote de Nuits also processing purchased grapes. Alberic Bichot is articulate and enthusiastic when it comes to expounding his company's qualitative ambitions and the results showed amid the subset of both white and red wines I tasted, which, incidentally, are all matured in 350- rather than 225-liter barrels. Numerous importers, including Atherton Wine Imports, Menlo Park, CA, tel. (650) 328-6639 and Bayfield Importing, Long Island, NY (718) 482-0200

From parcels in the southern portion of Clos Vougeot, Bichot produces a ripe, relatively soft style of wine. It is, of course, also rich and powerful, but the tannins are sweet, subdued into ripe red plum and raspberry fruits, the acidity giving the wine a fresh, lively character to finish.——R.V.(12/31/2008)—— 92