The 2007 Clos de Vougeot has a similar bouquet to the 2008 – broody and introspective at first, opening reluctantly with scents of small red cherries, smoke and iodine. The palate is medium-bodied with a chewy opening of cranberry and pomegranate, then a later hint of cocoa that segues into a grippy, masculine finish that is slightly drier than the 2008 but still nicely balanced. Like the 2008, I would actually afford this another 12 months in bottle. Drink 2014-2022. Domaine du Clos Frantin is owned by Maison Albert Bichot. Their Clos de Vougeot vines are located in two parcels – a smaller plot on the upper reaches of the clos and a larger parcel lower down, stretching from the mid-slope down to the RN74 artery. Though they have experimented with separate cuvees in the past, the winemaking team feels that an assemblage of the two creates a more complete Clos de Vougeot. The fruit is partly de-stemmed, the whole bunches individually selected, after which follows a three- to four-week maceration in temperature-controlled conical oak vats where punching down is conducted manually. The Clos de Vougeot is usually aged for up to two years in 60% new oak.

There is power here, but it is hidden behind an exterior of sweet fruit. The black plum juice freshness fronts dark, dry tannins, a core of steel. The ripe fruit is already delicious, but those tannins shows this dense wine’s aging potential. ——R.V.(10/1/2009)—— 92