The 1990 is shaping up as the finest effort in decades from this well-known producer. It reveals an impressively deep black/ruby color, and a dramatic nose of black fruits, smoke, roasted nuts, flowers, and herbs. Medium to full-bodied, with a succulent texture and impressive concentration, this tannic and structured Clos Fourtet has a heady, concentrated, multi-dimensional finish. Bravo! Anticipated maturity: 1994-2010.

Fully mature, and probably the best Clos Fourtet made during a rather undistinguished period, this dark plum/garnet-colored wine has an enticing nose of melted licorice, Provencal herbs, smoked meats, and sweet cherry and black currant fruit. Medium to full-bodied, with a luscious, succulent texture, excellent concentration, and sweet tannins, this hedonistic yet intellectually satisfying wine is a treat to drink. Anticipated maturity: Now-2010. Last tasted, 1/03.