From a vineyard with a rich measure of clay underlying its eroded schist and granite, the Piron 2008 Morgon Cote de Py Javernieres represents their worst hailed-on parcel but was rigorously-sorted and watchfully brought up in tank. (Ordinarily, they would have put it in barrel.) A Cabernet Franc-like amalgam of machine oil and sweet floral perfume in the nose leads to an unusually richly-textured mouthful of bright, tart cherry and plum underlain by a deep, marrow-like meatiness and finishing with outstanding length and vivacity. Amazingly, this seems to have been gloriously saved from the effects of hail, and ought to be worth drinking for as long as a half dozen years. Dominique Piron and his American oenologist wife Kristine-Mary have been both experimental and increasingly successful in recent vintages, and last year they significantly expanded their acreage. (Certain domaines or partnerships within their holdings are separately designated on the labels, but all bear the inscription “Dominique Piron” as well.) Availability in the U.S. has been a bit limited as yet, though, and I could not get retail prices on many of their 2007 crus – several of which I already reviewed in issue 178 – while the 2008 (a couple of lots still in malo when I visited in April) have for the most part yet to be released at the winery.Importers:Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040 and Williams Corner Wine, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 566 7079

The Piron 2008 Morgon Cote de Py – a substantial portion of which spent time in small barrels – is both brighter in fruit (tart red currant and cherry) and fuller in body than the other 2008s at this address. Due to the hail in much of this sector, the fruit had to be sorted with great rigor. I tasted three lots and essayed a blend in the glass. One displayed less carnal character and perhaps less depth and richness than their regular Morgon but as is usual for Cote de Py a more stony mineral character – advantages which carried into the blend. From deeper soils and less hail-affected, the second lot incorporates alluring carnal and floral elements that were not submerged in the blend, although, surprisingly, this lot alone displays less textural refinement and brightness than that from more hailed-on – but evidently for that reason more rigorously sorted – fruit. A small lot from barrel brought structure without succumbing to woodiness. The finished wine will definitely need time and should be worth following for at least 4-5 years. Dominique Piron and his American oenologist wife Kristine-Mary have been both experimental and increasingly successful in recent vintages, and last year they significantly expanded their acreage. (Certain domaines or partnerships within their holdings are separately designated on the labels, but all bear the inscription “Dominique Piron” as well.) Availability in the U.S. has been a bit limited as yet, though, and I could not get retail prices on many of their 2007 crus – several of which I already reviewed in issue 178 – while the 2008 (a couple of lots still in malo when I visited in April) have for the most part yet to be released at the winery.Importers:Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040 and Williams Corner Wine, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 566 7079

This spice-driven red shows an aromatic range of garrigue, rose petal, sandalwood and nutmeg notes accenting the spiced plum and black cherry fruit flavors. Well-meshed, with lightly chewy tannins and bright acidity. Very stylish. Drink now through 2013. 50 cases imported. -AN