Assembled in tank (but 50% aged in used barrique), the Piron 2009 Morgon Cote de Py Javernieres smells remarkably like a machine shop with smoky-sweet oil and metal shavings complementing its contingent of blueberry and black raspberry preserves. Heady, haunting evocations of peony evolve as the wine opens, and later linger in the open glass. Strikingly saliva-inducing and almost vibratory, with (despite its confitured richness) a subtly tart berry edge and a lip-smacking, invigorating salinity, the wine’s almost confectionary undertones of dark chocolate and nutmeg are beautifully foiled by it’s lingering sense of graphite and smoky mineral residue. What a thrill this will be to follow for a half dozen or so years – beginning as soon as possible! (Piron elected to blend the tiny amount of 2008 Javernieres on which I reported pre-bottling in issue 184 into his Cote de Py, with a result that – like other of his 2008s covered at that time – lived up to the optimistic end of my projected ratings.) Dominique Piron – for more about whom consult my report in issue 184 – did not begin harvesting his 2009s until September 7 and then worked at it for two weeks (even though his crop was radically reduced by the hail that afflicted nearly every commune in which he grows grapes). Despite the warm weather and reduced crop, only a few of Piron’s individual lots – and none of his finished blends – exceeded 14% alcohol. He segregated an unprecedented number of different Morgons from 2009, but this isn’t merely a case of his next-door neighbor Jean-Marc Burgaud’s practices rubbing off: the distinctive quality of Piron’s five cuvees justifies their number – indeed, this represents far and away the finest Piron collection I have tasted (granting that the assembled wines were still all in tank when I visited in April) and a confirmation that this is among the region’s outstanding, top value-delivering addresses.Importers include Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040 and Williams Corner Wine, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 566 7079

A very fine Beaujolais, from this premier hillside in Morgon that brings together red cherry and plum fruits on one side and firm tannins on the other. Big and concentrated, for aging over three years and more.——R.V.(7/1/2011)—— 92