Summer drought and early September rains took their toll on the number of lots that could be selected by Hecht and Bannier for their 2005 Minervois, and hence the volume of finished wine, but the results are unusually fine-grained and brightly black-fruited for this vintage (so many whose wines are reduced, tough-textured, or generally in a funk today). Bitter-sweet cassis, juniper, dark chocolate, lavender, and smoked meat are recurrent themes; with distilled fruit overtones and stony, iodine-like, and savory, saline underlying mineral and carnal suggestions adding considerably to this densely-packed wine’s complexity and allure. This has greatly improved since I reviewed it in issue 178; what’s more, I now realize that it is more likely than not to remain fresh in the bottle for at least the next several years.Gregory Hecht and Francois Bannier’s negociant partnership – entering its seventh year – is singularly quality-oriented, and their connections with growers and tireless tasting trips throughout the Languedoc and Roussillon (350-400 visits each year) are rewarding wine lovers wherever their limited production is sold. (Consult the Roussillon section of this report for their wines from that region.) Make no mistake: wines under the Hecht & Bannier label can compete with the very best being produced by individual estates in their respective appellations, making them among the world’s finest red wine values. (Prices have remained unchanged for three vintages.) The aim in selection of lots, as well as in elevage (much of which takes place in foudres or demi-muid), is to capture ripe fruit and rich textures while conserving fresh fruit vivacity and setting a standard of lift and elegance such as is possessed by only the best wines being grown today in the Languedoc and Roussillon. The partners (who met as students in Burgundy) will remain focused on just a few outstanding locations where a sufficient number of growers (typically 8-12 per appellation) practice low yields, hand-harvest, press impeccably, and will honor a handshake “contract.” At most, they suggest, a couple of additional appellations might one day be added to their line-up (which also includes a consistently delightful Syrah-based rose). As Hecht puts it, “for the protection of all parties, we intend to stay small,” both in total production per appellation and volume per grower. Meanwhile, in order to offer something less-expensive in higher-volume, a new cuvee has debuted this year – employing a new appellation that permits blending across both the Languedoc and Roussillon.Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

This blend of Syrah and Grenache has dominating flavors of red raspberry and currant with supporting accents of bay leaves and thyme. Medium weight with structured tannins, good acidity and a medium-length finish, it ends on a muted dried cherry note.——L.B.(3/1/2009)—— 85