The 2006 Chester-Kidder Red Wine is produced by Gilles Nicault, resident winemaker who also oversees the daily upbringing of all the Long Shadows wines. The latest Chester-Kidder is composed of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Syrah, 10% Petit Verdot, and 9% Cabernet Franc sourced from multiple AVAs. Medium purple-colored, it sports an inviting perfume of sandalwood, smoke, spice box, lavender, blueberry, and blackberry. The Syrah component gives it a forward personality but there is enough structure for several years of further development. Layered, savory, and concentrated, this lengthy effort will offer a drinking window extending from 2013 to 2027. Long Shadows and its seven labels, each with its own star winemaker, is just the beginning of Alan Shoup’s visionary project. He has purchased controlling interest in the Wallulla Vineyard from the Den Hoed brothers who developed it and who will continue to manage this huge project on the cliffs overlooking the Columbia River. Shoup has renamed it The Benches. It must be seen to be believed, encompassing 20 miles of road carved through the development. Shoup’s plan is to have each Long Shadow label have its own cave built into the landscape. Some fruit from the Benches is already being incorporated into some of the Long Shadows wines. Armin Diel is the winemaker/partner in the Poet’s Leap label. The Saggi label is produced by Ambrogio and Giovanni Folonari. Tel. (509) 526-0905; www.longshadows.com

This ups the percentage of Cabernet to 60%, with 25% Syrah, 14% Petit Verdot and just 1% Cabernet Franc. Released almost a full year later than the other Long Shadows reds, it is well-integrated and focused, with high-toned black cherry fruit set in dusty tannins. Scents of sandalwood drift through, along with cocoa and spice. As good or even better than the outstanding 2006. ——P.G.(2/1/2012)—— 93