The 2001 Luenzo is not quite as good as the notable 1998 version of the wine, a Sangiovese with Colorino, but its expansive, penetrating nose of plums, tar, and coconut and its solid, balanced palate of very good depth and persistence show off the talented winemaking of Paolo Caciorgna. Drink: 2005-2015.Vincenzo Cesani, who moved to Tuscany from the Marches after World War II, is a true cultivator of the soil – the calloused hands are those of a tiller, not a gentleman farmer or an entrepreneur bitten by the wine bug.Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898