The 2003 Luenzo is a terrific effort from Cesani, a small producer located near San Gimignano, an area best known for its whites. Made in a super-ripe style, it reveals jammy dark fruit, spicy black pepper and sweet toasted oak with an opulent, open-knit texture. At first somewhat rough around the edges, it settled down markedly with some air. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2018.Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898

Aromas of raisin, tar and earth follow through to a full body, with chewy tannins and a tannic finish. A little tough. Needs bottle age to mellow. Sangiovese and Colorino. Best after 2009. 800 cases made. -JS