Mint, thyme and maybe even some ginger peek through on the nose. It starts off on the palate with sweet fruit that suggests a bold, in-your-face wine, but that it’s more elegant than that: It has smooth tannins, mixed plums and a snap of white pepper and rosemary at the finish. This wine (as it always does) shows some serious oak—more than other tasters could handle—but it’s excellent nevertheless. ——D.T.(2/1/2004)—— 92