Lovely aromas of exotic spices intermingled with apricots and apples can be found in the nose of the 2003 Chassagne-Montrachet Champs Gain (white). A light to medium-bodied effort with a silky texture, it is the liveliest of Niellon’s 2003s, revealing a note of tangy citrus fruit in the finish. It should be consumed over the next 3 years.