One of the few disappointments in the lineup, the 2010 Chablis Les Vaudevey is a bit lean and angular next to the best wines of the year at this address. There is plenty of persistence, but ultimately the 2010 leaves a lasting impression of austerity and compactness. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Domaine Laroche is back in the US market after an absence of several years. The house style is marked by a search for considerable textural richness, which makes these some of the deeper, more opulent wines made in Chablis. Over the last few years, Domaine Laroche has begun to focus on organic viticulture and increased the use of indigenous yeasts, both of which are rare in Chablis. All of the Domaine Laroche wines are bottled under screwcap, also rare in Chablis, especially at this level. Winemaker Gregory Viennois told me the 2011 harvest started on September 12, towards the later side for the village. Viennois noted that potential alcohols and acidities were quite similar for both 2010 and 2011, which is unusual among the top domaines in Chablis. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661