The slightly flat nose plays right on the edge of reduction and I would suggest decanting this for 20 minutes or so first. The round, supple and delicious middle weight flavors possess a relatively fine mouth feel before terminating in a complex if again ever-so-slightly drying finale. This would best be consumed on the younger side with an appropriate dish.

Reduction. The strong minerality of a fine Marconnets is very much on display and this adds lift to the detailed, intense and sleekly muscular flavors that could even be described as robust. The firm tannins are well-buffered by the abundant dry extract and this will likely be approachable young though reward up to a decade of cellaring.

A very cool and ultra-fresh nose of restrained raspberry liqueur where added breadth is present in the form of spiced plum, black cherry and earth nuances. There is a similar sense of restraint to the delicious and beautifully well-detailed middle weight flavors that exude a fine minerality on the clean and moderately austere finish that stops just short of being dry. There is so much underlying material present that my sense is that this will round out though I should note that it's not a given.

The 2009 Beaune Marconnets is all about understatement. It doesn’t have the exuberance of some of the other wines here, but it makes up for that with its terrific overall balance. There is an element of softness to the fruit that makes the Marconnets a joy to taste right now. Crushed flowers, licorice and sweet spices linger on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, New York City; tel. (212) 239-1275