Along with their parcel in Savigny, Domaine Morot’s oldest vines inform their 2005 Beaune Marconnets. Blackberry, wood smoke, peat, and cedar aromas segue into a richly roasted meat and smoked peat palate. This is firmer and even more animal and mineral in character than the Bressandes, with the concentration to support a decade or more in the cellar. Geoffrey Choppin de Janvry reports that vine stress was becoming an issue in mid-September, so he picked his crop in just a few days. And speaking of haste, new stainless steel fermenters that replace the old wooden uprights here this year permitted Choppin to assemble and bottle all of his wines at nearly the same time, with the result that those I tasted had all either just been bottled or just prepped for imminent bottling. Around 50% new wood was employed, regardless of appellation, with the result that some wines showed overt oakiness and some did not. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083