The 1997 Borgo D'Altesi (100% Cabernet Sauvignon, just under 1,000 cases produced, aged in French barrels) is California-like with its thick, jammy, black currant fruit, low acidity, opulent texture, and succulent, fat, round finish. Given its up-front appeal, it should be consumed over the next decade. One of my favorite Tuscan estates, Altesino's wines are consistently among the finest of the region. Importer: A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Although Altesino is renowned for its superb Brunello di Montelcino, they also produce excellent proprietary reds from various blends. The 1993 Borgo D'Altesi (200 cases made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon) is the debut vintage. Although it exhibited an impressive dark ruby color as well as good weight and purity on the palate, it is closed, with a compressed, tannic, tough-textured personality. It should open with 1-2 years of cellaring, but at present, it does not appear to be an exciting effort from Altesino. Leonardo LoCascio, Winebow, Inc., 22 Hollywood Ave., Suite C, Hohokus, NJ 07423; telephone number (201) 445-0620; fax (201) 445-9869